February 18th – or is it February 19th???
Somewhere over the Pacific between Los Angeles and Tokyo, Japan...
The sun never sets and the flight never ends. Every time
someone on the south side of the plane opens a window shade, everyone on the
plane cringes and shields their eyes, like vampires caught in the light of
dawn. By the time on my watch the sun would have set by now, but halfway
through this flight there is still another 5 hours and 40 minutes to go and I
know now that the sun will actually never set on this trip across the endless
Pacific and that it feels like more of a curse than a blessing.
When I flew across the US it was just the opposite; if you
fly west at dusk the night goes on forever, the darkness extending for hours
beyond the length of time it should actually last, like midwinter in northern
Scandinavia or midsummer in Antarctica. So really it is all a matter of being
in the right place at the right time, or more like leaving the right place at
the right time. Fucking profound, isn’t it.
So far - 7 hours, 2 movies,2 crosswords, 2 Kindle chapters,
1 meal, 2 snacks, 2 trips to the bathroom and one mondo glass of wine. But
who’s counting. I seem constantly saddled by with seat mates who have no need
to pee. Or stand or stretch or move. On the way from Boston to L.A., one of
them spent 5 hours working nonstop on a powerpoint presentation about dengue
fever in the Solomon Islands. I stood for a while on this plane looking over
the cabin which was completely dark at what was really 4 in the afternoon in
relation to when we got on. Most people were asleep, the rest were glued to
their TV screens, no one seemed to be doing anything interactive or productive,
and almost no one stood up. The majority of passengers are Japanese, many of
whom are wearing protective face masks, but all of whom seem fine to sit
quietly and well-behaved for hours on end, making the restless blonde woman
with the bad tailbone stand out even more.
Here in my protective cocoon at seat 46A I am cushioned on
all sides by inflatables – behind my back, under my feet against the window
wall. Even under my seat, in the event of a water landing (pull the tabs or
inflate by mouth through the red tubes). If not for the ongoing ache in my
lowest vertebrae I would be fairly comfortable.
And what about that day of my life I have lost in crossing
the international date line? What parallel universe did that chunk of time fall
into? And will I ever get it back?
Flying over the Aleutian Islands now, hurling through the atmosphere at 565 miles per hour and 32,000 feet. I think I will lift my window shade half an inch and let a
shaft of blinding sunlight pierce the hearts of my vampire travelling
companions.
February 20th - Changi Airport, Singapore
How can it be another day already - I still haven't gotten to my destination yet!
The Singapore airport is all about passengers in transit - it is an elegant Disney-esque experience, sometimes with a highly refined sense of design - look at this ladies room I happened to wander into:
February 20th - Changi Airport, Singapore
How can it be another day already - I still haven't gotten to my destination yet!
The Singapore airport is all about passengers in transit - it is an elegant Disney-esque experience, sometimes with a highly refined sense of design - look at this ladies room I happened to wander into:
And of course the Snooze Lounge where anybody can sleep for free as long as they can find a open chair.
All very modern and very accommodating.
There are dozens of computers everywhere for people to just get online with and use. There is even a butterfly garden and a pool on the roof.
Switched from Delta to Garuda Airlines here for the final leg to Indonesia, and even though there is no share agreement between the two, they told me not to go through immigration, just leave my checked bag at the luggage carousel and in the morning Garuda would pick it up and make sure it got to Bali with me. When I asked if they were sure this would work, I was told this was standard proceedure in Singapore.
So...12 hours to Tokyo, 8 hours to Singapore, 6 hours in the airport, 2 & 1/2 more to Bali and then another hour or more in a car to Jati Homestay in Ubud...
All very modern and very accommodating.
There are dozens of computers everywhere for people to just get online with and use. There is even a butterfly garden and a pool on the roof.
Switched from Delta to Garuda Airlines here for the final leg to Indonesia, and even though there is no share agreement between the two, they told me not to go through immigration, just leave my checked bag at the luggage carousel and in the morning Garuda would pick it up and make sure it got to Bali with me. When I asked if they were sure this would work, I was told this was standard proceedure in Singapore.
So...12 hours to Tokyo, 8 hours to Singapore, 6 hours in the airport, 2 & 1/2 more to Bali and then another hour or more in a car to Jati Homestay in Ubud...
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